2023 Full size Stock RULES
A 5 Infraction limit, anymore and you are loaded!
Only 50% of your car can be painted black! NO All Black Cars!!!!
Every car must have a roof sign with a visible car number!!
Any American made full size car is eligible to compete except for; 73 or older Chrysler Imperials, 2003 and newer Fords, Hearses, Suicide Lincolns, 4x4's, Limousines, or checker cabs. Any parts being swapped from cars must be from the same era and must be GM to GM, Ford to Ford, Chrysler to Chrysler. If you have any questions text or call.
A. Remove all glass, mirrors, chrome, plastic, and decking in wagons.
B. Creasing is allowed on rear quarters and front fenders ONLY. Hood must be open for inspection. Quarters must stay in the vertical position.
C. You may use (5) 3/8" bolts per wheel well opening with 3/8" hardware washers to hold sheet metal together.
D. All body mounts in the cabin of the car must remain stock and untouched. 2 core support bolts may be replaced with 3/4" all thread max (may have a 4" max spacer of 2x2 that is floating, not welded between core support and frame) through hood with 4"x4" square plate ¼" Max thickness as tie down plate on the hood (1 per side). The rear 4 body mounts may be replaced with 3/4in all thread and may extend through the top of the trunk lid. Must have a 1 in. spacer between body and frame. The spacer can not be welded.
E. Doors may be welded solid, vertical seam only. 4" x 1/4" strap max. Don't weld the bottom of doors to the rockers in any way. Driver's door may have a door plate that is welded or bolted to the door (may not go more than 6" past seams). Door plate is mandatory if the car does not have a door bar!!!
F. All cars must have a Mandatory windshield bar, wire, or chain with no more than 6" of attachment to the bottom edge of window and roof that prevents the hood from coming through the windshield. Max 2 bars
G. Places where the wire goes through the body may have a 1" hardware store washer, no bigger welded all the way around.
H. No lacing of windows with wire or chain. No wire or chain to pillars or top of car
I. Top of doors may be beat over and welded with (3) 1" welds. No plate.
1. Must have a hole cut in each half of hood for safety, header holes are good enough.
2. May use (10) zip screws or (10) 3/8" bolts with 3/8" hardware store washer to hold hood bracing and sheet metal together.
3. Hoods can be secured shut (not including your 2 spots of 5/8" all thread) with ONE of the following:
a. (4) 2" long pieces of 2" x 2" angle (No Thicker than 1/4") with a single 3/8" bolt through them.
b. (4) 3"x3"x1/4" plates with 5/8" all thread max. 4"x4" square plate ¼" Max thickness as tie down plate for hood pins.
c. (4) spots of # 9 wire attaching hood to fender.
Sheet metal to sheet metal only for any of these methods.
A. Must remain on hinges or run no trunk lid.
B. The lid must stay on top of the rain rails. No more than 50% of the trunk lid may be bent down at a 90 angle toward the trunk floor.
C. Must have 10"x10" inspection hole in the trunk lid.
D. Trunk can be welded solid. Single strap per seam.
A. Stock frames. NO WELDING ANYWHERE ON FRAME (This includes seam welding)!!! All factory frame holes must be left open!!! NO EXCEPTIONS UNLESS RULES SAY YOU CAN!!!! Cars with C channel rear frame rails will be allowed to box the frame in with a factory frame piece. Single bead of weld no plate.
B. No creasing or shortening of the frames, front or rear, with the exception of 80 and newer cars may shorten up to 1" in front of the core support mount. Old iron can square off frame in order to have a flat surface when hard nosing. If we think you cut more than what was needed to square frame off, you will not run!!!
C. No tilting in any way. Cold bending is allowed but no cutting, welding, or heating of frame.
D. Rear frame can be notched but no pre-bending.
E. Hump plates will be allowed. 6" wide X 22" long and ¼" max thick, placed in the middle of hump face only contoured to the top of the frame. (center does not have to be cut out). No Shaping plates. NO cutting will be allowed after inspection. If plates are too big, you don't run, NO REFUNDS!!
F. You are allowed (2) 4"x 6" patches on frames; no more than a total of 2 patches per car (during fair season) and must have a 1" gap between the plates (that goes for fresh car or pre-ran car). If you have plates on your frame from past shows they must be cut off completely (no windowing), no weld or slag left on frame and must be painted white. No angle for patches. No overlapping, shaping, or bending of the plate, they must stay flat. This is not to be used as a gusset in any way. Fords must have a 1/4" gap between patch plate weld and stock flap frame weld. Patches must be painted white and declared.
A. Any engine may be used in any make car.
B. Lower motor mounts may be factory stock style (you may weld 1/4" 4x6 plate from cradle to cross frame) or run after market motor mounts. If you choose to run after market mounts, they can be no bigger than the stock mounts. No solid motor mounts factory or aftermarket.
C. Lower mounts may be welded to cross frame only!
D. You may use two 1/2" thick 7"x7" spacers to raise engine. If you need more than 1/2 to raise engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate only (example in Caddy, Mopar). Nothing to frame! No Exceptions!
E. No protectors of any kind on the engine, or transmission. No steel bells or tail shafts. You may run an aluminum ultra-bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing (if you cut your transmission tunnel, you may not replace or repair sheet metal around your transmission). No additional bolts or welding permitted. Lower cradle with front plate and pulley protector allowed only (½'' max). Cradle may not exceed past middle of engine block (where factory mounts would bolt to block) and may go no higher than the header flange, do not go past the back of the heads, and do not touch the frame in any manner will be allowed. If your cradle has anything that goes under the front pulley; sway bar must be removed.
F. Any factory stock OEM car cross member or square tube no bigger than 2"x2". You may weld 2x2 angle by 6 in. to frame to mount cross member (6" away from the crush box). Do not bolt or weld to the floor in any way. If cross member is homemade it can be no longer than the one that came with that make or model of car and must be straight across.
A. Radiators must remain in stock location.
B. Any automotive type radiator or aluminum radiator may be used.
C. No mounts that strengthen the core support will be allowed.
D. You may run either a factory Condenser or a piece of expanded metal no wider than 32" and no thicker than 1/8" in front of your radiator. It can only be mounted with (8) 1" welds or (6) 1/2" bolts. No spray foam around the radiator.
E. Electric fans are allowed.
A. Any rear end allowed. Any Gear. Any Axel size. You may weld new mounts onto rear end.
B. If your rear end has a brace it must be 6" away from the frame
C. No all thread on rear ends.
D. Coil springs can be wired to rear-end and package tray tight or you may chain rear end, (NO bigger than 3/8" chain bolted together 1 per side). NO Welding
E. Leaf spring cars must use only factory spring clamps and number of leafs. No flat leafs
F. 98 and up Fords may move trailing arms inside of frame (Watt Links). You may use bolt in brackets to mount upper trailing arms. 5-5/8" bolts, nuts and washers max may be used per bracket. No welding washer nuts or bolts to package tray. Bolt in brackets may be no larger than 6"x12"max and 3/8" thick max. The bolt in brackets must be 2 separate brackets. The brackets may not be joined in any way or used to strengthen frame or body.
G. Lower trailing arm brackets may be taken from older Ford and welded in 1/2" max welds. You may use 3"x3"x1/4"x3" long max square tubing to mount lower trailing arms if you don't use the stock brackets from old Ford 1/2" max welds. Do not bolt all the way through the frame, only through one side (DO NOT use it as a pin or it will be removed).
H. You must use a factory car trailing arms to mount rear end (No 2x2). NO homemade trailing arms
I. Trailing arms may be shortened or lengthened (1" overlapped max) but may not be reinforced. This means no adding steel, material, substance or any kind of welding to them. You may use free floating washers on the bolts.
J. Each car is only allowed to have 4 trailing arms at a maximum.
K. Slider drive shafts are allowed. Pinion brakes are allowed, mounting should not strengthen car in any way (no pinion brake protectors). Anything excessive will be inspector discretion.
L. Must use aftermarket style tank no larger than 10 gallons or use a boat tank.
A. NO CAGE INSIDE OF DOORS!
B. 4-point floating cage; dash bar, two side bars, rear bar. (4"x4" material max size) Optional side bars may be 2' x 6".
C. (4) 2x2 down legs can be attached to the frame but must be located no closer than 4" from the Box or S and no further back than 6" past door post. They can be welded to top of side rails only and must be straight up and down with no other plates aiding in attachment. (Any questions call)
D. Side bars can't exceed the dash bar, 60" max door bar length, rear bar 6" max behind driver's seat, and must be a minimum of 6" above the factory body mount height. Dash bar must be 5" from firewall and all bars must be 5" off the transmission tunnel.
E. You can weld the cage to the door post, cowl and steering column to secure cage. You may have 2 bolts or 2 pieces of all thread (5/8" all thread and washers max) from the cage to the firewall in order to hold firewall in place, but no Metal or welding to the firewall.
F. Gas tanks and batteries must be moved, safely secured, and covered.
G. Battery holder must be bolted to sheet metal (4 bolts max) or in the seat. Size of battery holder must be reasonable.
H. Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 6 " from the rear firewall (Don't beat metal back) and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car (4" off the floor pan). Gas tank can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage. No bolts, all thread, or Metal is attaching protector to the floor. Pre ran cars must have a 4" gap between GTP and sheet metal before they will be allowed to run.
I. Steering column: After-market steering column allowed. No more than 2 knuckles in column. Steering wheel may be removable. No brackets to frame.
J. Roll over bar permitted. They may go to frame and must be straight up and down. No farther back than 6" from rear seat. It can be bolted to the roof with (2) 1/2" bolts no more than 3" off roll over bar max. No using roof sign to connect cage to the body in any way!!!
K. Transmission coolers are permitted. Must be 6" above the floor if attached to cage or bolted to sheet metal floor only. May not strengthen car in any way. Must be covered or enclosed.
L. Floor shifters are allowed. Cable shifters allowed.
M. After market throttles are allowed, bolted to sheet metal or engine only.
N. After market brake systems are allowed. Maximum plate size is 17 inches long by 10 inches wide. Must be bolted to sheet metal only (4 bolts max).
O. All bolt-ins must remain minnimum 4" from firewall
A. Any factory car bumper is permitted.
B. Homemade bumpers are allowed with the following stipulations:
1) A single pipe design no more than 7" by 7"
2) No more of a point than that of a 1974 Impala bumper and must follow the same contour.
3) Must be rounded on the ends. No rough or jagged edges.
C. You may bolt or weld bumper to a stock bumper shock (Maximum bolt size is ½'') You may weld bumper shock face plate to the bumper (Front & Rear) no adding metal allowed. You may weld bumper to frame (Butt weld only, NO adding metal.) NO WELDING OF BUMPER OR BUMPER SHOCKS/BRACKETS PAST FIRST 4" OF FRAME. If your car came with a bumper shock you must use the one that came with the car. If your car did not come with a shock(example 71 Chevy) you may use a 74-76 BOP bracket mounted in stock location with stock bolts or weld an impala cup in the stock manner onto the frame with a single pass of weld, only welding described above. Text with pictures about special cars to mount the bumper legally.
D. You may use 3'' x ¼" flat strap (1 per frame rail front and back) to help hold bumper on no more than 4'' back on the frame. This is the only added metal allowed when mounting bumper.
E. Stock bumper brackets must stay in the stock locations. No altering brackets, no rear brackets on front. NO homemade shocks or brackets, if it looks homemade in anyway it won't run. Do not move brackets back on the frame when squaring it off, they must stay in the factory location.
F. Maximum bumper height is 20" Minimum bumper height is 14" On a fresh car if the bumper is less than 14" off the ground due to sagging springs, the springs must be changed to meet the minimum height.
G. You can run #9 wire (3 wraps max) from core support to bumper in 2 spots. Nothing in front of the radiator.
Tires and Rims:
A. Any Tire and wheel combo. 13" to 16" tire. Must be pneumatic. NO split rims, bare rims or studded tires. No bead locks or fully plated wheels on the outside.
B. Full wheel centers are fine but must have a stock face of a wheel in front of it.
C. You may run small weld on lip rings no wider than 2''.
D. 1-inch lug nuts are allowed. Valve stem protectors ok.
A. Back suspension must move!
B. Factory stock only!
C. NO kicking front springs.
D. No strutting.
E. Stock steering components only (No Hydro steer). No aftermarket ball joints, tie rods, or spindles. Tie rod ends must remain stock ( May brace tie rods with angle iron or round tube). Nothing can connect spindles, A arms, or tie rods to keep suspension held together.
F. You can swap new style a-arms with old style a-arms but must be bolted in the stock manner (Do not do anything to strengthen between the a- arm brackets)
G. You may use (1) 3" long ½" bolt per a-arm with hardware style washers to hold a-arm down or a 2"x1" strap (1 per side of car) with 1" welded to the frame. You may weld the bolt to the top of the frame with a single pass of weld (don't put it on the car in any way to strengthen the car or you will lose the bolt).
A. A pre ran bent rail or clip may be replaced using the butt-weld method. If replacing a clip, it must be done at the side rail or in the side rail. We will use a level to check for pitch. You may only reclip the front frame or rear rails of the car, not both. Must be the same make, and model. No clipping fresh cars
B. Body rust- If floor boards or body needs to be patched it must be done with same thickness sheet metal (20 gauge max).This means an actual hole all the way through the sheet metal (we need to be able to see it was rusted). Sheet metal may be overlapped by 1" max all the way around the hole and welded.
C. Frame rust- you may repair 2 spots 3" x 3" max with no thicker than 1/8" material. May only be welded on 2 sides. If we don't see any rust, plate will be removed completely even if you cut into your frame.
A. Any car that does not pass inspection on its first attempt will be have one chance to fix things with only 5 infractions max!!!
B. No refunds!! Car will not be inspected until entry fee has been paid.
C. If the rules don't say it can be done, then that means it can't be done!!!
D. Never assume. Always ask to be sure!
E. Only welds on the car are listed in the rules if it doesn't say you can, don't do it!!!
F. Drivers have the right to look at all cars. Crew members do not!! If there is a complaint or a question about a car it must be brought to the inspection team's attention 30 minutes prior to the start of the show.
G. Once a car passes inspection the hood will be allowed to be fastened down.
H. Inspection will start approximately 4 hours before each event. INSPECTION CLOSES 1 HOUR BEFORE THE START OF THE EVENT!!! IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO MAKE IT BEFORE THAT DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME DRIVING THERE!!! THIS IS YOUR ONLY WARNING!!!
I. Any car that fails to comply with these rules will not run and entry fees will not be refunded.
J. Inspector's decision is final.
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