C. No tilting in any way. Cold bending
is allowed but no cutting, welding, or heating of frame.
D. Rear frame can be notched but no pre-bending.
plates will be allowed. 3” wide X 12” long and ¼” max thick, placed in the middle of hump face only.
No Shaping plates. NO cutting will be allowed after inspection. If plates are too big, you don’t run, NO REFUNDS!!
F. You are allowed (2) 4”x 6” patches on frames; no more than a total of 2 patches per car (during fair season)
and must have a 1" gap between the plates. No angle for patches. No overlapping, shaping, or bending of the plate, they
must stay flat. This is not to be used as a gusset in any way. Fords must have a 1/4" gap between patch plate weld
and stock flap frame weld. Patches must be painted white and declared.
A. Any engine may be used in
any make car.
B. Lower motor mounts may be factory stock style (you may weld 1/4" 4x6 plate from cradle to cross
frame) or run after market motor mounts. If you choose to run after market mounts, they can be no bigger than the stock mounts.
No solid motor mounts factory or aftermarket.
C. Lower mounts may be welded to cross frame only!
D. You may use
two 1/2" thick 7”x7” spacers to raise engine. If you need more than 1/2 to raise engine to clear steering
components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate
only (example in Caddy, Mopar). Nothing to frame! No Exceptions!
E. No protectors of any kind on the engine, or transmission.
No steel bells or tail shafts. You may run an aluminum ultra-bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof
bell housing (if you cut your transmission tunnel, you may not replace or repair sheet metal around your transmission). No
additional bolts or welding permitted. Lower cradle with front plate and pulley protector allowed only (½’’
max). Cradle may not exceed past middle of engine block (where factory mounts would bolt to block) and may go no higher than
the header flange, do not go past the back of the heads, and do not touch the frame in any manner will be allowed. If your
cradle has anything that goes under the front pulley; sway bar must be removed.
F. Any factory stock OEM car cross member
or square tube no bigger than 2"x2”. You may weld 2x2 angle by 6 in. to frame to mount cross member (6”
away from the crush box). Do not bolt or weld to the floor in any way. If cross member is homemade it can be no longer than
the one that came with that make or model of car and must be straight across.
A. Radiators must remain
in stock location.
B. Any automotive type radiator or aluminum radiator may be used.
C. No mounts that strengthen
the core support will be allowed.
D. You may run either a factory Condenser or a piece of expanded metal no wider than
32" and no thicker than 1/8" in front of your radiator. It can only be mounted with (8) 1" welds or (6) 1/2"
bolts. No spray foam around the radiator.
E. Electric fans are allowed.
A. Any rear
end allowed. Any Gear. Any Axel size. You may weld new mounts onto rear end.
B. If your rear end has a brace it must
be 6" away from the frame
C. No all thread on rear ends.
D. Coil springs can be wired to rear-end and package
tray tight or you may chain rear end, (NO bigger than 3/8" chain bolted together 1 per side). NO Welding
Leaf spring cars must use only factory spring clamps and number of leafs. No flat leafs
F. 98 and up Fords may move trailing
arms inside of frame (Watt Links). You may use bolt in brackets to mount upper trailing arms. 5-5/8" bolts, nuts and
washers max may be used per bracket. No welding washer nuts or bolts to package tray. Bolt in brackets may be no larger than
6”x12”max and 3/8” thick max. The bolt in brackets must be 2 separate brackets. The brackets may not be
joined in any way or used to strengthen frame or body.
G. Lower trailing arm brackets may be taken from older Ford and
welded in 1/2” max welds. You may use 3"x3"x1/4"x3" long max square tubing to mount lower trailing
arms if you don't use the stock brackets from old Ford 1/2” max welds. Do not bolt all the way through the frame, only
through one side (DO NOT use it as a pin or it will be removed).
H. You must use a factory car trailing arms to mount
rear end (No 2x2). NO homemade trailing arms
I. Trailing arms may be shortened or lengthened (1" overlapped max)
but may not be reinforced. This means no adding steel, material, substance or any kind of welding to them. You may use free
floating washers on the bolts.
J. Each car is only allowed to have 4 trailing arms at a maximum.
K. Slider drive
shafts are allowed. Pinion brakes are allowed, mounting should not strengthen car in any way (no pinion brake protectors).
Anything excessive will be inspector discretion.
A. NO CAGE INSIDE OF DOORS!
4-point floating cage; dash bar, two side bars, rear bar. (4”x4” material max size) Optional side bars may be
2’ x 6”.
C. (4) 2x2 down legs can be attached to the frame but must be located no closer than 4" from
the Box or S and no further back than 6" past door post. They can be welded to top of side rails only and must be straight
up and down with no other plates aiding in attachment. (Any questions call)
D. Side bars can’t exceed the dash
bar, 60” max door bar length, rear bar 6” max behind driver’s seat, and must be a minimum of 6" above
the factory body mount height. Dash bar must be 5” from firewall and all bars must be 5” off the transmission
E. You can weld the cage to the door post, cowl and steering column to secure cage. You may have 2 bolts or
2 pieces of all thread (5/8" all thread and washers max) from the cage to the firewall in order to hold firewall in place,
but no Metal or welding to the firewall.
F. Gas tanks and batteries must be moved, safely secured, and covered.
G. Battery holder must be bolted to sheet metal (4 bolts max) or in the seat. Size of battery holder must be reasonable.
H. Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 6 " from the rear firewall (Don’t beat metal back) and
no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car (4” off the floor pan). Gas tank can be bolted to the floor
if NOT attached to the cage. No bolts, all thread, or Metal is attaching protector to the floor. Pre ran cars must have a
4" gap between GTP and sheet metal before they will be allowed to run.
I. Steering column: After-market steering
column allowed. No more than 2 knuckles in column. Steering wheel may be removable. No brackets to frame.
J. Roll over
bar permitted. They may go to frame and must be stright up and down. No farther back than 6” from rear seat. It
can be bolted to the roof with (2) 1/2" bolts no more than 3" off roll over bar max. No using roof sign to connect
cage to the body in any way!!!
K. Transmission coolers are permitted. Must be 6” above the floor if attached to
cage or bolted to sheet metal floor only. May not strengthen car in any way. Must be covered or enclosed.
L. Floor shifters
are allowed. Cable shifters allowed.
M. After market throttles are allowed, bolted to sheet metal or engine only.
N. After market brake systems are allowed. Maximum plate size is 17 inches long by 10 inches wide. Must be bolted to sheet
metal only (4 bolts max).
A. Any factory car bumper is permitted.
B. Homemade bumpers are allowed
with the following stipulations:
1) A single pipe design no more than 7” by 7”
2) No more of a point
than that of a 1974 Impala bumper and must follow the same contour.
3) Must be rounded on the ends. No rough
or jagged edges.
C. You may bolt or weld bumper to a stock bumper shock (Maximum bolt size is ½’’)
You may weld bumper shock face plate to the bumper (Front & Rear) no adding metal allowed. You may weld bumper to frame
(Butt weld only, NO adding metal.) NO WELDING OF BUMPER OR BUMPER SHOCKS/BRACKETS PAST FIRST 4" OF FRAME. If your car
came with a bumper shock you must use the one that came with the car. If your car did not come with a shock(example 71 Chevy)
you may use a 74-76 BOP bracket mounted in stock location with stock bolts or weld an impala cup in the stock manner onto
the frame with a single pass of weld, only welding described above. Text with pictures about special cars to mount the bumper
D. You may use 3’’ x ¼” flat strap (1 per frame rail front and back) to help hold bumper
on no more than 4’’ back on the frame. This is the only added metal allowed when mounting bumper.
bumper brackets must stay in the stock locations. No altering brackets, no rear brackets on front. NO homemade shocks or brackets,
if it looks homemade in anyway it won’t run. Do not move brackets back on the frame when squaring it off, they must
stay in the factory location.
F. Maximum bumper height is 20” Minimum bumper height is 14” On a fresh car
if the bumper is less than 14” off the ground due to sagging springs, the springs must be changed to meet the minimum
G. You can run #9 wire (3 wraps max) from core support to bumper in 2 spots. Nothing in front of the radiator.
Tires and Rims:
A. Any Tire and wheel combo. 14” to 16” tire. Must be pneumatic. NO split rims, bare rims
or studded tires. No bead locks or fully plated wheels on the outside.
B. Full wheel centers are fine but must have a
stock face of a wheel in front of it.
C. You may run small weld on lip rings no wider than 2’’.
lug nuts are allowed. Valve stem protectors ok.
A. Back suspension must move!
B. Factory stock
C. NO kicking front springs.
D. No strutting.
E. Stock steering components only (No Hydro steer). No
aftermarket ball joints, tie rods, or spindles. Tie rod adjuster sleeve seam maybe welded but no metal added. Nothing can
connect spindles, A arms, or tie rods to keep suspension held together.
F. You can swap new style a-arms with old
style a-arms but must be bolted in the stock manner (Do not do anything to strengthen between the a- arm brackets)
You may use (1) 3" long ½” bolt per a-arm with hardware style washers to hold a-arm down or a 2"x1"
strap (1 per side of car) with 1" welded to the frame. You may weld the bolt to the top of the frame with a single pass
of weld (don't put it on the car in any way to strengthen the car or you will lose the bolt).
A. Any car
that does not pass inspection on its first attempt will be have one chance to fix things with only 5 infractions max!!!
B. No refunds!! Car will not be inspected until entry fee has been paid.
C. If the rules don’t say it can be
done, then that means it can’t be done!!!
D. Never assume. Always ask to be sure!
E. Only welds on the car
are listed in the rules if it doesn't say you can, don't do it!!!
F. Drivers have the right to look at all cars. Crew
members do not!! If there is a complaint or a question about a car it must be brought to the inspection team’s attention
30 minutes prior to the start of the show.
G. Once a car passes inspection the hood and trunk will be allowed to be
H. Inspection will start approximately 4 hours before each event. INSPECTION CLOSES 1 HOUR BEFORE THE
START OF THE EVENT!!! IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO MAKE IT BEFORE THAT DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME DRIVING THERE!!! THIS IS YOUR ONLY
I. Any car that fails to comply with these rules will not run and entry fees will not be refunded.
Inspector’s decision is final. www.rousepromotions.com
@RousePromotions Rouse Promotions firstname.lastname@example.org
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